Today my host family took me to see 歌舞伎 or Kabuki at the 国立劇場 or National Theater of Japan! I was really mesmerized by the performance.
The play that we saw was titled 京乱噂鈎爪 or "kyouwomidasuuwasanokagizume." That's a mouth full for sure, but with the English assisted audio guide, it was quite easy to understand. Currently the National Theater is showcasing what is called "New Kabuki" or Kabuki written after the start of the Meiji period (1868) to about the beginning of the Showa period (early 1900's). This particular play was set just before the start of the Meiji period in Kyoto amongst the turmoil of the rebellious Choshu and Satsuma domains against the Edo Shogaunate.
The play opened with a group of dancers yelling "eejyanaika!" or nothing really matters anymore. These dancers were quickly slashed down by the main character, who is a half human/leopard who kills at will, and resembles a western vampire, with white face and long beastly nails. The plot quickly thickens and we are introduced to many characters, a doll who lives by the will of Daiko's (a huge women who serves as comic relief) mirror, an evil court advisor who casts' spells upon others in order to influence political outcomes and the emperor (he gets his head cut-off by the leopard man), and many more.
I cannot remember every character's name, or the story so well for that matter, but I do remember how well done it was. For example, how truly scary it felt "to be there" when the scene changed to the court advisers hideout, with strikes of lightning, human shaped monster dolls, evil incantations, and scary music.
Another interesting note, all the performers where men, the female roles are played by "Onnagata" or "Women Shape" men. Kabuki is really a fantastic, funny, beautiful art.
All in all I had a wonderful day, my host parents are so sweet! They bought me (in addition to travel fare and play tickets) a yummy bento box while in the theater and took me to their private health club to eat a a fancy shmancy Chinese dinner afterwords. They are not sweet because they merely buy me things however, they are honestly interesting people and I love talking with them. We often talk about the difference between the U.S and Japan, and related issues, and though it is in Japanese which is great practice, I feel like I am making a true connection with them!
Ka-san and I in front of Shibuya Station with Hachiko (transferring trains to get to theater)
The Advertisement for the Play We Saw,
The Man in Blue and Red was the Court Advisor...So Evil!!! (taken in subway)
National Theater of Japan, Kokuritsugekijyo
O-bento Before Seeing the Play, Plain but So Delicious
Me Inside the National Theater of Japan after Performance
National Theater of Japan
The Supreme Court of Japan is next to the National Theater of Japan ;)